{"id":2513,"date":"2025-05-18T08:00:00","date_gmt":"2025-05-18T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/?p=2513"},"modified":"2025-05-20T13:07:20","modified_gmt":"2025-05-20T13:07:20","slug":"everything-i-ate-in-a-weekend-of-pintxos-hopping-in-san-sebastian","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/2025\/05\/18\/everything-i-ate-in-a-weekend-of-pintxos-hopping-in-san-sebastian\/","title":{"rendered":"Everything I ate in a weekend of pintxos hopping in San Sebasti\u00e1n"},"content":{"rendered":"
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San Sebastian, Donostia, is the crown jewel of Spain\u2019s Basque region (Picture: Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

San Sebasti\u00e1n is the crown jewel of the Basque region that runs along Spain<\/a>\u2019s dazzling northern coast. It\u2019s a beach town turned Michelin hotspot with world-class cuisine \u2014 seriously, wear loose trousers.<\/p>\n

The city, known as Donostia in Basque, lies on the Bay of Biscay, its Old Town flanked by two sandy beaches, where you\u2019ll find streets filled with photogenic bars serving up mouthwatering local tapas and cider.<\/p>\n

San Sebasti\u00e1n started life as a fishing village in 1180, and enjoyed a revival as a seasonal holiday spot in the 19th-century, when Queen Isabel II chose it as her summer<\/a> residence.\u00a0<\/p>\n

This is a place rich in history and scenery, with sweeping views of La Concha beach best enjoyed from high atop Monte Igueldo.<\/p>\n

Its winding streets come alive each September for the San Sebasti\u00e1n International Film Festival, but its star quality is, undisputedly, the food<\/a>.<\/p>\n

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San Sebastian\u2019s streets are a foodie\u2019s dream (Picture: Alamy Stock Photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration.\u00a0Sign up here<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

With the\u00a0second-most Michelin stars per capita and an enviable claim to the title of most bars per person, this is a destination for people who eat differently. <\/p>\n

The Basques even have a name for it: pintxo<\/em>, aka hopping from bar to bar and sampling bite-size bits of culinary art.<\/p>\n

Fresh from a flying visit to the place known as Europe\u2019s most beautiful bay, here\u2019s everywhere I ate, and alternative things to do, in fabulous San Sebasti\u00e1n.<\/p>\n

The best pintxos bars in San Sebasti\u00e1n<\/h2>\n

San Sebasti\u00e1n\u2019s status as a contemporary food stop can be traced to the late Anthony Bourdain<\/a>, who visited the city three times for his shows A Cook\u2019s Tour, No Reservations, and Parts Unknown.<\/p>\n

He spoke of the deep connection between cuisine and community, emphasising that meals are less about food, more about bringing people together. Bourdain made several repeat visits to restaurants across the city, something he rarely did. <\/p>\n

All of that said, ordering at a pintxos bar is not for the meek. <\/p>\n

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Bar Sport is one of the best-known places for pintxos, with the urchin cream, pictured, a popular choice (Picture: Mel Evans)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Not only will you struggle to find an English menu at more old-school spots, you\u2019ll need to claim your space at the counter \u2014 make yourself known when you want to order, just as Bourdain would have done. <\/p>\n

Etiquette is everything, so move along swiftly once you\u2019ve hoovered down your grub. Otherwise, you\u2019re at risk of attracting a brusque \u2018vamos!\u2019 from over your shoulder.<\/p>\n

The bars are set up so you order a pintxos (pronounced \u2018peen-chos\u2019) or two alongside a drink, at just a few euros each. <\/p>\n

These small snacks are typically served on bread and skewered with a toothpick. From anchovies and olives to jamon and seafood, there\u2019s something for every taste.<\/p>\n

Each bar is generally known for one particular pintxos, be it the fois gras or urchin cream at Bar Sport, grilled mushrooms with egg yolk from Ganbara, or anchovies at Bar Txepetxa.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Pintxos are traditionally served on bread and skewered (Picture: Shutterstock)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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The queue at La Cuchara De San Telmo, minutes after doors opened (Picture: Mel Evans)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

More popular spots will be crowded with tourists and locals alike; be prepared for a lot of shouting and pointing. <\/p>\n

It\u2019s almost like a sport, and the best thing to do is lean in and resign yourself to the chaos.<\/p>\n

While pintxos is designed to be eaten quickly, some bars have seating and in the case of La Cuchara De San Telmo, it\u2019s worth planning ahead to nab one of its four tables for the evening session. <\/p>\n

Having seen a lot of recommendations for this place on TikTok and beyond, we knew it would be a fight for the bar. <\/p>\n

Arriving 20 minutes before doors opened for dinner, we scored ourselves a spot outside, where we could spend a little longer enjoying glasses of red at \u20ac2.80 (\u00a32.30) a pop and trying its specialties without getting an elbow in the ribs from other diners.<\/p>\n

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This octopus was perfectly seasoned (Picture: Mel Evans)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Runaway winners were the suckling pig (\u20ac19, \u00a316.10), expertly seasoned steak (\u20ac17, \u00a314.40), salty, oiled peppers (\u20ac9, \u00a37.60) and oreja de cerdo aka pig\u2019s ear (\u20ac14, \u00a311.80). <\/p>\n

Don\u2019t knock it, it\u2019s delicious and looks more like a folded omelette than animal anatomy.<\/p>\n

Venture further than the Old Town<\/h2>\n

While most of the famous pintxos spots are confined to the walls of the Old Town, a short walk opens up another realm of amazing eats.<\/p>\n

To the east of the Old Town is the Gros neighbourhood, where you\u2019ll find local-approved spots such as the unpretentious Ricardo Taberna. <\/p>\n

Here you\u2019ll be joined by old, suntanned men yelling at TV screens and punters enjoying a drink outside. Two ciders, two croquettes and a slice of the most delicious cod tortilla set me back \u20ac11.30 (\u00a39.50).<\/p>\n

A street away is Casa Galicia, where a plate of paprika-seasoned Octopus will relieve you of only \u20ac4 (\u00a33.30). Get two.<\/p>\n

Head to a cider house<\/h2>\n

The region is known for its cider (or cidre<\/em>), and a 10-minute taxi from San Sebasti\u00e1n\u2019s centre will take you to Astigarraga, the home of the drink. <\/p>\n

Book a long lunch at one of these cider houses before you visit and you\u2019re guaranteed an incredible afternoon.<\/p>\n

We took a table at Astarbe Sagardotegia, a cider house that\u2019s been in operation since 1563, with the 15th-generation producing the latest bottles while the kitchen turns out velvety T-bone steaks and cod omelettes.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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It\u2019s an all-you-can-catch cider fest (Picture: Mel Evans)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Once you take your seat, you\u2019re handed a glass and, without invitation, you can make your way to a small room with several giant barrels filled with various ciders. <\/p>\n

There you\u2019ll be met by a trained txotxero<\/em> (or cider master), who uses a key to open one of the barrels as a stream of golden liquid arcs out, ready to be caught by your outstretched glass. <\/p>\n

Don\u2019t be alarmed if you get more on the ground than in your glass on the first attempt.<\/p>\n

Don\u2019t neglect the sweet treats<\/h2>\n

San Sebasti\u00e1n may be known for pintxos, but that doesn\u2019t mean you should sleep on its desserts. <\/p>\n

The creamed buns of Otaegui patisserie will set you back \u20ac2.25 (\u00a31.90), so it\u2019s financially prudentto indulge. <\/p>\n

We walked along munching slabs of its hazelnut-laden milk and dark chocolate, snapped into sizes of your choosing and paid by the weight.<\/p>\n

Basque cheesecake is a speciality of the region, and La Vina\u2019s claim to fame is that it was the first to make it. <\/p>\n

Despite its newfound popularity on TikTok<\/a>, it\u2019s well worth a visit, but there is no need to wait longer than 20 minutes.<\/p>\n

We went at 9pm when it was arguably at peak service, and were hastily ushered in to find any available space and force our way to the bar. Politely, of course.<\/p>\n

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@serenatraveldiaries<\/a> <\/p>\n

This is where the Basque Cheesecake originated in 1990 \ud83e\udd29 I ate the original one and it was delicious, one slice is \u20ac6 but it\u2019s enough for two people The queue can get long so arrive at 10.30 in the morning when the restaurant opens and have it for breakfast \ud83d\udccdLa Vi\u00f1a, San Sebastian #cheesecake<\/a> #basquecheesecake<\/a> #sansebastian<\/a> #foodie<\/a> #visitspain<\/a> What to eat in san sebastian | Best cheesecake in the world <\/p>\n

\u266c MILLION DOLLAR BABY (VHS) \u2013 Tommy Richman<\/a> <\/section>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\n<\/figure>\n

At a time when few things live up to expectation, a slice of this dessert truly is<\/em> worth the hype. <\/p>\n

Each forkful delivers a masterpiece of creamy, soft wonder. It was so good it felt wrong to wolf it down in the hotel room, and I wanted to return several times over my few days in the city. One set me back \u20ac6.50 (\u00a35.50).<\/p>\n

See the city from Monte Igueldo<\/h2>\n

Fed, watered and bursting at the seams, a short funicular ride will bring you to Monte Igueldo, where you\u2019re rewarded with breathtaking views of the region. <\/p>\n

There\u2019s a hotel and a restaurant should you want a wine, but the fun is the small amusement fair which runs on the mountain.<\/p>\n

From a slightly questionable Casa Del Terror to the Mysterious River ride along a narrow waterway, there\u2019s plenty to entertain kids and big kids alike.<\/p>\n

Shop \u2019til you drop<\/h2>\n

While the Old Town is brimming with cultural history, the new town boasts a shopping district that will challenge you not to burn serious cash.<\/p>\n

From high street stores like Zara and Mango, to Sephora and a range of Spanish designers including Bimba Y Lola, there\u2019s something to suit every taste after a long day of eating.<\/p>\n

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\n\t\t\t\tHow to get to San Sebasti\u00e1n and where to stay\t\t\t<\/h2>\n
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Getting to San Sebasti\u00e1n<\/strong><\/p>\n

There are no direct flights from the UK to San Sebasti\u00e1n, but you can fly to nearby airports like Bilbao<\/a>, then take a bus or train.<\/p>\n

From Bilbao, the bus is around 1.5 hours and will set you back anywhere from \u00a37 to \u00a317, depending on the operator.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Vueling flies direct from London Gatwick to Bilbao with flights starting from \u00a343.<\/p>\n

Where to stay<\/strong><\/p>\n

Best value:<\/strong> Okako, located in Gros, is stylish in its simplicity and only a 15-minute walk from the Old Town and only 10 from Zurriola beach. Perfect for those who \u2018don\u2019t spend any time in the hotel room anyway\u2019 but still appreciate the touches of a coffee machine and a fruit bowl with muffins, single rooms start at \u20ac99 (\u00a383.90) a night.<\/p>\n

Best splurge: <\/strong>If you want to splash out, Hotel Maria Cristina, located in between the old and new towns, was designed in 1912 by the same architect behind the Ritz in Paris. Now owned by the Marriott chain, expect total 5-star luxury. Of course, that comes at a cost, with lower rate rooms in June available for \u00a3641 per night.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

<\/h2><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

San Sebastian, Donostia, is the crown jewel of Spain\u2019s Basque region (Picture: Getty Images) San Sebasti\u00e1n is the crown jewel of the Basque region that runs along Spain\u2019s dazzling northern coast. It\u2019s a beach town turned Michelin hotspot with world-class cuisine \u2014 seriously, wear loose trousers. The city, known as Donostia in Basque, lies on […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2515,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2513","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2513","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2513"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2513\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2523,"href":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2513\/revisions\/2523"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2515"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2513"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2513"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2513"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}