{"id":2536,"date":"2025-05-17T10:00:00","date_gmt":"2025-05-17T10:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/?p=2536"},"modified":"2025-05-20T13:07:25","modified_gmt":"2025-05-20T13:07:25","slug":"i-holidayed-like-a-local-in-japan-and-didnt-touch-tokyo-osaka-or-kyoto","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.mugfoundry.com\/index.php\/2025\/05\/17\/i-holidayed-like-a-local-in-japan-and-didnt-touch-tokyo-osaka-or-kyoto\/","title":{"rendered":"I holidayed like a local in Japan and didn\u2019t touch Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\n\t\t\"Nikko\t<\/div>
Beyond the crowded streets of its best known cities, Japan has a wealth to offer visitors (Picture: Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

From Tokyo\u2019<\/a>s neon-lit streets to the world-leading restaurants of Osaka<\/a>, Japan<\/a> <\/strong><\/strong>is the destination of dreams<\/a> for millions of travellers.<\/p>\n

But after a record-breaking year for tourist arrivals in 2024, the country is grappling with overtourism<\/a>, and the challenges that come with it<\/a>. <\/p>\n

Kyoto has been dubbed the \u2018seventh ring of hell<\/a>\u2019 as its cobbled streets buckle under the weight of surging visitors. And, in a crack down down on \u2018paparazzi tourists\u2019<\/a>, the government is considering raising departure tax.<\/p>\n

Yet there are whole swathes of Japan that remain largely undiscovered. <\/p>\n

If you\u2019re willing to veer off more well-trodden tracks, you\u2019ll be rewarded with ancient hot springs, volcanic mountains and verdant forests \u2014 practically untouched by international travellers. <\/p>\n

From the rolling hills of Nasu Highlands <\/a>to the striking shrines of Nikko, I took the road less travelled in the Land of the Rising Sun. <\/p>\n

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Here\u2019s my top tips for holidaying like a local in Japan, including the best onsens and and the small but charming spots that are worth your time.<\/p>\n

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\n\t\t\"Experience\t<\/div>
A historic bridge in Nikko, a tiny city in Japan\u2019s Tochigi Prefecture (Picture: Faima Bakar)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Onsens without the crowds<\/h2>\n

Hot springs are big business in Japan.<\/p>\n

Known as onsens, they are essentially baths of volcanic spring water replete with natural minerals that claim to provide health benefits from stress relief to clearer skin.<\/p>\n

Onsens are part of Japan\u2019s self-care culture, but popular spots like Kurokawa and Beppu have become stiflingly crowded since the advent of TikTok<\/a>.<\/p>\n

A quieter alternative is Nasu, a sprawling mountain village where onsens have been on the go since the 8th-century. They are believed to be among the oldest in Japan.<\/p>\n

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Nikko and Nasu are in Tochigi Prefecture, north of Tokyo (Picture: Metro)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Located on the eastern slope of Mount Nasu, my top choice is Shika-no-Yu, the village\u2019s oldest onsen which is still open to the public. <\/p>\n

Bear in mind that all onsens require you to be totally naked (they\u2019re gender segregated) and people with tattoos may be refused entry.<\/p>\n

Some resorts also have in-house onsens (check before booking). <\/p>\n

Bettei Kai, one of the locally-owned hotels I stayed at, had a private onsen I\u2019d recommend to anyone.<\/p>\n

As well as hot springs, Nasu, in the Tochigi prefecture north of Tokyo, boasts excellent hiking, skiing and artisanal cheese (the region is one of the biggest producers of cheese in Japan).<\/p>\n

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What a private onsen looks like (Picture: Faima Bakar)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Shrines<\/h2>\n

Did you really go to Japan if you didn\u2019t visit any shrines? Across the country there are thousands of fascinating historical sites, most with no entry fee.<\/p>\n

The crowds at temples like Kyoto\u2019s Fushimi Inari Taisha cause headaches for everyone, but you can wander in peace at Sessho-seki in Nasu.<\/p>\n

Known as the Killing Stone and a short walk from the Shika-no-Yu onsen, this shrine is essentially a huge lava rock on the slope of Mount Nasu.<\/p>\n

Legend from the Muromachi period has it that a fox with nine tails disguised itself as a beautiful woman and tried to kill the Emperor Toba.<\/p>\n

After fleeing to Nasu, the demon vixen was vanquished and turned into a stone, late named Sessho-seki because many creatures died from the poisonous air it emitted. This place has been designated a National Place of Scenic Beauty.<\/p>\n

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\n\t\t\"Experience\t<\/div>
The killing stone shrine (Picture: Faima Bakar)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While it\u2019s stunning, be warned that there is a strong smell of sulphur in the area from the rocks. <\/p>\n

In nearby Nikko, a one-hour drive, you\u2019ll find the UNESCO World Heritage site Toshogu Shrine, as well as Futarasan-jinja Shrine and Rinnoji Temple<\/a> all within walking distance of each other.<\/p>\n

At the latter two are \u2018matchmaking\u2019 temples for couples who want to stay the course (not sure what happens if you\u2019re single).<\/p>\n

Another good choice is the Unganji Temple, a working monastery where monks train. It\u2019s free to wander the grounds.<\/p>\n

Cycling, hiking and the great outdoors<\/h2>\n

I\u2019m not a natural cyclist , but Japan\u2019s countryside sparked a love affair with bikes, namely the e-bike variety.<\/p>\n

I recommend a tour with Rider Experience Inc, a multi-day cycling tour operator that takes you to \u2018hidden Japan\u2019. Packages include slow e-bike journeys, a foodie bike tour from Nasu to Nikko and a 12-day trip around the Tohoku region for the professionals among us.<\/p>\n

My group cycled through bamboo forests, rice villages and the haiku field, once frequented by Matsuo Basho, one of Japan\u2019s most famous Haiku poets.<\/p>\n

If you fancy it, you can try writing your own Haiku, inspired by the dramatic landscapes that surround the field which influenced Matsuo.<\/p>\n

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Classic maple trees line the streets of Nasu and Nikko (Picture: Faima Bakar)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One of my favourite parts of this trip was riding through Nikko Kaido Cedar Avenue, registered by the Guinness World Records as the longest tree-lined road in the world.<\/p>\n

A one-day private tour which includes lunch, harvesting experience and souvenir, as well as the renting of bikes is \u00a538,500 Japanese Yen (\u00a3202).<\/p>\n

There are also shorter alternatives, such as a three-hour tour which costs around \u00a335. This is definitely worth it, especially if you do the Kitomana forest route where you may see Mount Fuji at sunset towards the end of your cycle.<\/p>\n

Book via the Rider Experience website<\/a> (all guides speak English).<\/p>\n

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\n\t\t\t\tMetro travels across Japan\t\t\t<\/h2>\n
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