MUGFOUNDRY

I’m standing next to a gaudy pyramid-shaped tomb that belongs to Nicholas Cage – who, in case you were going to check, is still alive.

The actor paid $40,000 for his eventual resting place in St Louis Cemetery No 1, which is also the burial site of Madame Laveau, a revered voodoo queen and beautician who lived in the 1800s.

Visiting a graveyard is just one of the many bizarre experiences I’m having in New Orleans – a city that I am quickly falling in love with.

Most people come here to drink or swing their cheap Mardi Gras beads on the infamous Bourbon Street. And if there’s anything that the people of ‘Nawlins’ know how to do, it’s how to throw a good party.

To locals, this isn’t about visiting tacky joints or drinking cheap booze –it’s about embracing every opportunity that life throws at you to have a little fun.

One person told me that their neighbourhood once threw a bash to celebrate the potholes on their street being filled in.

Nothing is too weird in the ‘The Big Easy’.

In one week, I have a drink with a ‘vampire’, meet (and eat) alligators, and learn that in Louisiana, vegetables are an optional food group.

I also face death on more than one occasion, in a manner of speaking.

Serial scares

New Orleans has a grid-like layout, meaning if you want to truly see it, you need to walk.

It’s part of the city’s charm so I encourage you to ditch Google Maps and just let your feet, ears and nose lead you.

Of the walking tours – and there are many – I recommend the Haunted History: Ghosts and Legends experience (from £19). But beware, the stories can be harrowing and uncomfortable.

The worst of the lot is the stop outside LaLaurie Mansion, where serial killer Delphine LaLaurie and her husband tortured and murdered countless slaves, a story that was depicted in season 3 of American Horror Story.

Legend has it that if you walk under the building’s balcony or touch its walls, you will be haunted by its spirits. I stayed firmly on the other side of the street.

Ironically, this house is also linked to Nicholas Cage: he owned the property in the early 2000s, before losing it to foreclosure.

Interview with a vampire

The French Quarter is home to several vampire establishments, including the Vampire Café on Royal Street – which serves cocktails in blood bags – and the Vampire Apothecary on Saint Peter Street.

Have dinner at 11pm, followed by a visit to the in-house ‘dentist’ who can design a pair of fangs for you, starting at $200 USD (£151).

There is also a secret speakeasy for the undead hidden above a truly incredible jazz bar.

I won’t give away the location because that would spoil the fun, but go to Boutique Du Vampyre and tell the cashier you are ‘looking for the vampire’.

His name is Jason, of all things, and he’s very friendly.

I’ll admit, the vampire thing felt a bit gimmicky. But as someone who was obsessed with Buffy The Vampire Slayer as a teen, I couldn’t resist delving into this world for an evening.

The weird and the wonderful

While you’re in the area, pop into one of the many bizarre museums that New Orleans has to offer.

Start with the Voodoo Museum on Dumaine Street to learn about the true history of this spiritual practice and why it has nothing to do with sticking needles in dolls (entry is £7.50).

Continue to the Pharmacy Museum on Chartres Street (also £7.50), which has fascinating medical items on display across two floors and a lovely courtyard in the back.

Finish off at the Museum of Death, packed with serial killer memorabilia (£11.30). The receptionist tells me they often get items sent in for consideration including, most recently, a bag of teeth.

Light relief

At this point, I’m in dire need of some more light-hearted activities.

I recommend Mardi Gras World, which is essentially a huge warehouse filled with colourful floats (entry is £23).

Skip the guided tour, walk around by yourself and take funny photos with a life-sized Oscar statue and a bust of Queen Elizabeth II.

After, get a taxi to Magazine Street – a six-mile stretch of road in the Warehouse District – and spend a few hours doing retail therapy.

The best shops, including bargain vintage store Funky Monkey, can be found from the middle of the street onwards.

Trust me on this: you need to set aside a few hours if you want to walk the entire stretch.

And don’t forget to look up; there are Mardi Gras beads in the trees, as well as random skeletons on porches – which is a normal sight in New Orleans. Several celebs, including Sandra Bullock and vampire author Anne Rice, own a house in the neighbourhood.

Sadly, I didn’t run into any of them.

In the middle of this hipster shopping haven, I find another treat: a tiny museum dedicated to alligators (this one is free).

They have plenty to see, including a life-size stuffed reptile, named Fideaux (yes, Fido) and you can buy gator teeth or jerky to take away.

Tastes like chicken

Love it or hate it, alligator meat is a common staple in Louisiana restaurants.

If you want to try it for yourself, head to the French Market to get a cheap gator ‘bite’ (a deep-fried slice), burger, or sausage on a stick.

Cooking and eating good food is a way of life in Louisiana with classic Creole and Cajun dishes like jambalaya, gumbo and po-boys available pretty much everywhere.

Must-visits include Mother’s, a diner that has been around since 1938.

It’s an unassuming place that doesn’t care how you feel about their slightly dated decor.

There’s usually a long queue but it’s worth the wait.

For something more upscale, pop into Compère Lapin or Palace Cafe. Get breakfast at Ruby Slipper – three locals recommended it to me –  and for dessert, eat all the beignets your heart desires at Cafe du Monde, which is worth the hype.

In this city – frankly, in this state – food isn’t just food.

Cooking and eating good food is a way of life in Louisiana with classic Creole and Cajun dishes like jambalaya and gumbo available pretty much everywhere.

My personal tip is to ditch the luxury restaurants and focus on local or independent establishments, because that’s where the real action (read: flavour) happens.

And order more than one po-boy, from different places. This isn’t ‘just a sandwich’ and not all po-boys are created equal.

After dinner, if you do want to party or catch some live music, the locals have one rule: stay away from Bourbon Street (the only exception is Fritzel’s).

Instead, choose Frenchmen Street in Marigny. Every night, each bar has an artist or band playing – follow your ears to find your vibe.

It is near-impossible to sum up the atmosphere of this street. If I had to try, joy is the word I’d choose.

One minute, you could be standing in a busy crowd around a pick-up truck, listening to someone rapping, and the next, you’re in a dark club as a traditional jazz band makes up the music as they go along.

Gimme more

Just over two hours away, you’ll find Lafayette, which has been crowned the ‘happiest town in America’.

And I get why – the sun is constantly beaming and people here are some of the friendliest I’ve met in my years of travelling.

There’s a lazy vibe in the air and I mean that in a good way.

Eat boudin, a traditional local dish of pork and other ingredients stuffed in a sausage casing, order ice cream at Borden’s 1950s parlour, and enjoy live music at Bon Temps.

You absolutely must go on a swamp tour on Lake Martin with Cajun Country Tours to spot gators among the ancient cypress trees (from £19 per person).

This excursion was one of the highlights of my trip. I had expected a high-pace danger tour but it was actually incredibly peaceful.

Mind you, I kept my hands firmly inside the boat.

You can also visit Tabasco Island – where the sauce is made – and its Jungle Gardens, a drive-through park where the reptiles roam free (entry is £12 for adults).

Meanwhile, the state capital, Baton Rouge, was built for two types of people: politicians and students – meaning it is a ghost town during low season.

This city wasn’t really to my liking, mostly because I love old architecture and prefer a chaotic, cultural vibe.

But it’s worth a day trip just to see the State Capitol Building. Take the lift to the top and view the city from above.

There’s also a miniature replica of the White House – more formally titled the Old Governor’s Mansion – to explore (also free). The property has a hidden passageway behind a wall.

If you have time, you can visit Britney Spears’ hometown, Kentwood, which is an hour from Baton Rouge.

Keep your expectations in check, though. There’s little else beyond a high school and a Popeye’s.

New Orleans is a truly unique part of the world where anyone is welcome. No one cares what you look like, what you wear or how old you are.

Being weird isn’t weird here; it’s celebrated.