MUGFOUNDRY

In the first installment of Metro Travel Hot Takes, Sophie-May Williams recalls her disappointment with Porto, the second city of a country she loves.

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Ever heard the phrase, it’s the people who make the place? That’s how I felt about Porto, Portugal’s second city.

Disclaimer: I adore this country, especially its capital. I remember setting foot in Lisbon for the first time and knowing immediately it was somewhere I’d return.

From quaint cobblestones to kitschy trams and the ever-present aroma of pastel de nata, it has all the ingredients for an elite city break. What’s not to love?

In hindsight, I blame such high expectations for the feeling I got when I arrived in Porto and immediately thought: ‘This is a BTEC version of Lisbon.’

When you’re travelling, first impressions are everything. But let’s backtrack a bit.

Grey concrete

From the moment I received my Airbnb booking confirmation – a sprawling apartment in the affordable Marquês district – I was itching to get to Porto and start exploring with friends.

Last October, 17 of us descended on the city — an infinitesimal 0.00024% of the seven million international tourists Porto and the North region of Portugal welcomed in 2024.

The grey skies and drizzle that greeted us on arrival didn’t help.

Neither did the shabby Metro journey from the airport. One of my favourite parts of a city break is jumping off the plane and onto public transport to reach my accommodation. It’s the best way to take in the sights on the outskirts of a city.

In Germany, I’ve made this commute captivated by rolling fields and verdant forests. In Zanzibar, my eyes goggled at colourful markets and off-grid villages.

On my way to Porto? I was disappointed to see a mix of grey concrete walls and barren patches of dirt.

Not the end of the world, but not the prettiest sight either, especially in a country with such spectacular scenery.

Redeeming features

All of that said, when the rain finally stopped, the heart of the city sprang to life.

The São Bento train station in the historic centre is so impressive, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Monument of Portugal. The building houses over twenty thousand Portuguese azulejo tiles, while the ornamented exterior showcases Beaux-Arts architecture.

Likewise, the vibrant buildings on the Douro River and Vila Nove de Gaia didn’t disappoint in real life.

Neither did the one-hour sunset river cruise, where we passed vineyard slopes, pastel-hued riverbanks, and the six famous bridges of Porto in a traditional rabelo boat, all for a very reasonable €17.50 (£15).

Later that day, we piled into swanky rooftop bar DeCastro Gaia and admired the view below. Considering the setting, prices weren’t extortionate; a 15cl glass of white wine cost €4.50 (£3.85), while a side of padrón peppers was €5 (£4.28).

If there’s one thing I will say about Porto, it’s easy on your bank account.

But on the ground, it was a different story. The riverside bars were heaving with people; some weren’t even open. The shoulder season is supposed to have fewer crowds, but it seemed everyone had the same idea. When I visited Lisbon in April 2022 with the same group, we didn’t have this problem.

Aesthetically, I must say I also prefer Lisbon – I found it to be prettier, quirkier, and brighter.

Even the infamous ‘Pink Street,’ which has long divided opinion (you can read Metro‘s Alice Giddings’ take on it here), lured me more than Porto Cathedral or the imposing Luís I Bridge.

The verdict

My final word? For me, Porto feels a bit like when a buzzy band drops their sophomore album, and it’s not quite as good as the debut.

Or when your favourite TV series ends on an underwhelming cliffhanger.

I wonder, if I hadn’t already fallen in love with Lisbon, would I have enjoyed Porto more?

Probably. While both destinations left me with wonderful memories, it will always be the former that I recommend to a friend.

But isn’t that the great thing about travel? It’s all subjective.